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Having looked around at the different configurations that are possible, I decided that a traditional stern suited me best. I am unlikely to cruise extensively and so, for me, cruiser and semitrad sterns simply limit the internal cabin space. As for the chosen length, 57' feet seems to be a reasonable compromise between space, cost, manoeuvrability, and passable locks. As a reasonably popular length, I hope it would also be easier to sell.

I ordered my shell from G&J Reeves in Napton (tel: 01926 815581). This has proven to be a very good choice and I can recommend their work (unfortunately, I'm not on commission!). They aren't the cheapest around (or the most expensive!) but they are good value and I like the design of their shells. The only hiccup was that they forgot to do some of the things I'd asked for. They did put it right but it could have been avoided if I had supplied my specification as one document rather than two (drawing and separate text). Anyway, here's my layout:

From stem to stern:

Exterior: Small circular rooflights, 18" double glazed portholes, solar water heaters, solar panels (subject to funds!).

Saloon. Open plan apart from stove and airing cupboard (starboard bow). SS water tank under front deck.

Galley. Comprising storage space (light brown), 2 ring induction hob, combination microwave oven (both in dark grey), full height fridge freezer (light blue square).. oh and the kitchen sink.

Toilet. Toilet and washbasin. Holding tank partially visible in grey.

Utility block. Comprising anything hot or noisy. Blue square: washing machine, orange circle: hot water tank, purple rectangle: generator. Not shown are things like the central heating system and pumps. Anything in green is storage space.

Separate shower - don't want to have to wait for toilet when someone's in the shower!

Bedroom. 2 bunks that will convert into a double. Step up to rear doors covers electric propulsion motor behind watertight bulkhead. Storage lockers either side. Battery bank under beds? and rear deck.

There follows a cutaway animation of the interior (looking forward) to give a better impression of space and layout...

The next image is included to give an idea of the kind of thing I'm aiming for inside. The design has moved on since I drew this and the proportions are wrong (compare to above animation) but here it is anyway...

Gas is, understandably, popular on narrowboats. It is widely available, cheap, and clean. However, legislation governing its use on boats is tight and as well as being potentially dangerous, gas also contributes to condensation when used for cooking. These factors persuaded me to look at using electricity for cooking instead.

If electricity is to be used for cooking, a substantial source of on-board power needs to be installed (although by using modern appliances and technology, the load can be reduced). The obvious solution is a generator. But why fit two engines, one for power and one for propulsion? One engine can do both. By fitting a large alternator to an engine, you can generate enough power for most things although this means running a large diesel engine with a relatively small load.

Alternatively, by fitting a carefully sized generator, you can generate domestic power more efficiently. This power can also be used to propel the boat by means of a large electric motor. From my investigations so far, a 10 to 15hp electric motor would seem to be reasonable for a 57' narrowboat with a 24" draught. 10 to 15hp is equivalent to 7.5 to 11.2kW, although you need to put in slightly more power than you get out. This can come from a generator, from batteries, or from a combination of batteries and generator. The exact details of my system are still evolving but a combination approximating the following is likely:

Diesel generator (~7kVA)

Synchronised inverter (~5kW)

Deep cycle battery bank (~30kWh)

Solar panels?

Wind generator?

Heating will be by diesel and solid fuel stove. You'll notice a conspicuous absence of radiators in the drawings above. Radiators are designed to impart heat into the air through convention as well as being a radiant heat source. As soon as you ventilate the boat, you are heating up the towpath! I intend to fit hot water underfloor heating under a slate or tumbled marble floor. This is more efficient as it gives a much higher proportion of radiant heat which means that the air temperature is lower without compromising comfort.

Before I embarked upon my little project, I went on a hire boat holiday. The hire boat had very little thermal mass and so it was too hot in the day and too cold at night. The high thermal mass of my floor should help to even out fluctuations in temperature. Quite how I'm going to manage to fit such a floor in a boat is still undecided at the time of writing this - you'll have to check the diary for updates.

Other systems

Under construction... will cover plumbing and wiring, etc.